Day 6: Tehran - Holy Shrine of Imam Khomeini

Khomeini was the guy exiled by the Shah/King of Iran that returned after the US coup (that turned into the Revolution). He's the guy that has made Iran an Islamic Republic and turned Iran into the voice of opposition to Israel's domestic policies and the US's international policies. It's pretty safe to consider him the founder of contemporary Iran.

 

We went to his shrine and got the diplomatic treatment. We were one of this first to get to go up into the 'call to prayer' towers. (Defintely the first tourists). They were all very nice to us and underscored their love for the American people (Though many of the mourners were taken aback to hear that we are American.)




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Day 5: Tehran - Silk Road and Vahid

Later in the day we went to Silk Road Gallery to meet with one of the curators there. They specialize in photography, which isn't always my bag, but they have some great great shows (go ahead, google them). The curator introduced us to Vahid, an artist that we had seen just the night before at an opening. Vahid, who is starting to get attention from international collectors, took us to Ave Gallery, where he has a show up. There he showed us the few pieces that he wasn't allowed to hang (too much lady neck) and invited us to his studio. He also explained that because he refused to serve in the military, they won't allow him to leave the country (despite having upcoming shows in Hollywood and Istanbul).

 

(Photo: Vahid's show at Ave Gallery)

 

 




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Day 4: Tehran - MOCA and Iranian Artist's Forum

We had our meeting with the International Director of the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art. It was a resounding success and I met my modest goal of charming the pants off him and being able to count on a continued relationship. He was great.

 

Later, we went to an opening at the Iranian Artist's Forum. This place was sort of like Williamsburg with its head covered. It's also home to one of the cities only vegetarian restaurants.




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Day 3: Tehran - Golestan & Galleries (continued)

Worthy of its own post was our experience at Homa Gallery for a solo exhibit by Sharam Karimi.

In two hours, he'd sold 4 pieces for a total of $20,000.

 

We spoke with him a bit, definitely a great guy.




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Day 3: Tehran - Golestan & Galleries

We went to the Golestan Palace, a place worthy of its tourist trappings.

The entire place is the shiniest thing I have ever seen, and boy do I like shiny things.

 

Afterwards, we went to a couple small gallery openings.

Rest assured that the art scene here is no better or worse than the one in Manhattan's Lower East Side.

 

[Photos: Golestan Palace, piece by Bita Fayazi, piece by Farideh Lashai, piece by Koroosh Shishegaran]




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Michael is an Iranian TV star

Picture now. Story later.




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Shiner Hejabs

I'm finally understanding the nuances here between what is said and what is done... what are the rules and what are the practices.

When I first showed up, I came with black form-fitting hejab. When I realized that I was sending the wrong signals and that I wouldn't be harassed for wearing something lighter and shinier, I was gung-ho for swapping it out.

 

Here are some pictures for you anonymous blog comment maker.




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Day 2 in Tehran

Last night we had our first experience in being babysat Americans.

 

Michael and I were invited to a private screening of a Sigur Ros documentary and even though our guide had set us up with a car to go alone, he showed up as we were leaving so he could chaperone. The implicit threat made by our guide to the gallery owner made us all nervous. ("These are Americans, you do not know them, they do not know you... what is this gallery, what are you screening, they can stay but I must see inside....") AWKWARD and suck. After we got there, I decided we had to leave so we didn't ruin their night. It could have been very cool if not for the mild paranoia injected into all of us by someone with absolutely no authority.

 

In other news, our ride back with a secular cabby proved for some interesting conversation about his life, his views on the US and this country since the revolution.

 

 

love love

bri

 

[photos: scarved betties waiting outside a restaurant, Iranian beer (tastes just like Budweiser, but with 0.0% alcohol)]




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First morning in Tehran

I am still not dreaming.

Today, I'll go with a shiner hejab. =)




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Tehran: Day 1

After landing this morning and being met by Mohsen (kinda rhymes with Olson) we were taken to our Hotel. (Worth mentioning again, traffic is insane) After some debate, we decided to go straight into the heart of beast-- the Tehran Bazaar. When I have a bit more time, I'll give you the details, for now I leave you with: fingerprints, customs, traffic, prayer rooms, US Den of Espionage, Michael Pope being interviewed for the local news, fist fights, PressTV, Barack Obama, gold, shiny, shiny, SHINY.

 

P.S. People here are happy we are Americans... they like Americans.

 

P.P.S. After a day of a straight up black hejab, I've made a move toward a rainbow shiny one. The black one is making me look like a pious Muslim and causing more attention (me hanging with two men who don't look Iranian...), plus the shiny one leaves a few sparkles in my wake.




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We have landed in Tehran

We have made it to Tehran-- checked into the hotel and soon we are off to explore. The traffic is insane. The news on the television is respectable. Our hotel is quite nice and our tour guide/translator has so far been very accomodating. More, more soonly. 

 

 

 {Pictures: Michael and I in Dubai, Me jumping on our Tehran hotel bed, Me cold chillin' waiting to head to the airport this morning}




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We've made it through Security

We're at JFK now and I'm delighted to say everything has so far been seamless. We were sent through secondary security due to "our destination" and even that was a breeze.

It's quiet. I'm watching CNN and catching up on emails. Michael is fiddling with his new digital camera- a kodak point and shoot that we picked up at b&h yesterday.

I'm hoping I didn't forget anything...

The nice man just announced that we are boarding in 10 minutes-- and it looks as if I have a window seat.

Oh, squee.
=) 


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It's sort of like Christmas Eve

Michael and I had a day of last-minute errands-- blank books, cameras, clothes, plane snacks... laundry at the 24-hour laundromat.
Our flight to Dubai tomorrow is 13 hours long. When we arrive it will be 8AM in the U.A.E., but near Midnight Eastern Standard Time.
My body will be completely confused, I'm sure.
We have a day to spend there before our short (2 hour) flight to Tehran.
Hopefully it'll give us a chance to ease into Islamic society.

Bags are packed. Batteries are charging.
I'm feeling more sublime that anything else right now.

Watch out Tehran, here comes Super Awesome Adventure Club.




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Send Love to Iran is TAKING IT TO TEHRAN!

On Thursday, September 25 the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tehran finally approved my visa.

I found out via email this morning and I immediately woke my traveling companion (Michael Pope) with a screeeeech.

We leave New York City on Monday October 6.


More details & more action... more later. 


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Hypernova @ Pangea Day

Me and my girl Maria Gambale produced a satellite event for
Pangea Day.

We held it at Monkey Town in Williamsburg, BK, NYC.
It went very well and we got to meet some hip, local movers and shakers.

Most exciting was seeing the boys from Hypernova on screen during this HUGE global event.

Yup, that little known Iranian rock band, playing live from Los Angeles.

It was such a big deal.




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Matt from Indiana wins the MySpace Contest

There were 149 entries.
Matt won with artist Mina Agah and chose NIMANY shirt "Obsession".

This shirt was one of my favorites, for real.





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Persian Contemporary Artists - MySpace Contest

In my researching, I'm finding Iran to have a real solid roster of contemporary artists, so I've created a contest for my project's MySpace friends.

For each Iranian artist submitted, you're given 1 entry into a drawing to win a Xerxes or NIMANY T-shirt.

Pretty sweet deal.
Contest ends Valentine's Day 2008.

More here: myspace.com/sendlovetoiran 


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Published in Pars Arts!

Sepideh Saremi, the editor of Pars Arts, contacted me about writing a piece.

So awesome.

Click here for the article. 


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Photos for Sale

Lauren Goldberg-- a photographer in my network of friends, has offered to sell some of her rock and roll prints to help fundraise for the trip.

So sweet of her. Friends are awesome.

Photos Available can be found here. 


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"Unconditional Love is Global Security" T-shirts

I've created a limited run of teeshirts to help support/promote my ambitions.

You could purchase one here.




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